Other than common sense for caution and some word of mouth information, there is little-to-nothing regarding how to introduce lories for the purpose of establishing breeding pairs. First and foremost, know without a doubt, that the best you can do is gradually introduce two lories and observe their acceptance or rejection. If the introduction is not carefully done with acute observation and possible intervention, one or both lories could be seriously injured or killed.

Our general methodology is to use a wire separator in a large cage with a bird on each side or side by side cages. They should be able to taste one another without the possibility of physical harm. We observe for one to two weeks, or when they show significant "mutual" interest. Only at that time will we introduce the two birds together, preferrably in a different cage, and OBSERVE. For the first few days, be prepared to quickly remove one of the birds if aggression occurs. If this happens, start over with separation and repeat the process. Fortunately, the majority of attempts are successful if you have patience. When it is apparent that the birds are not compatible, try again with a different bird.

The optimum situation is to introduce a pair at an early age - just after weaning is best, and prior to maturity. Even early pairing does not totally guarantee future compatibility, but the odds are in favor of success. This early pairing has proven successful and less stressful on the birds (not to mention the breeder).

Mature hand tame lories, bonded to people, should not be paired with wild caught or parent raised birds. Hand tame / bonded to people lories do not have the inherent natural instinct for attention priority and self protection. Tame to tame, and non-tame to non-tame pairing is the best possibility. Contrary to some belief, pairs of once tame lories can become excellent breeding pairs (our experience). Please note however, that tame pairs, once bonded and mature, have no fear of people and are likely to attack their unsuspecting owner under breeding conditions.

Lories are extremely active and therefore should have the largest cage size practical; the bigger the better. We have success with a minimum size cage of 24" wide x 48" long x 36" high. Most of our cages for two lories are 36" wide x 60" long x 36" high which provides some flight and a lot of individual play room with toys. We prefer outdoor suspended cages (area is wire enclosed for safety / protection) for ease of maintenance with many birds to care for. However, some lories cannot take temperature extremes - check your references prior to outdoor setup. Most of the larger species are safe above 40 degrees (F) and below 100 degrees (F). Heat lamps in the winter and misters in the summer can help extend this temperature range another ten to fifteen degrees. Some species require a much tighter range of temperature. "Err on the side of caution".

Our lories have boot box style nest boxes with an accessible inspection door. Each box is maintained with clean bedding of aspen wood shavings (eucalyptus shavings and/or leaves can be added to repel insects). Boot boxes are used for roosting and nesting, provides security, and this configuration prevents egg breakage when birds hurriedly enter the nest. Our lories prefer this style over other shapes we have experimented with. The box size should be proportional to the size of species. Our "L" style box size for the larger lories is 9" wide x 9" high x 18" deep x 18" long, with an entrance hole of 3" diameter, and constructed from 3/8" plywood. Smaller birds, such as Red-flanked prefer small sizes, but of the same configuration. Caution: the ladder within any box must be shaped accordingly and large enough to prevent entrapment due to toe nails, etc. We use 1" x 2" wire cloth (14 gauge), with at least 3/4" spacing behind the wire.

A square box with an open front is offered to each young lory as a secure place to sleep. This early introduction of a secure location has proved beneficial as maturing occurs.

Please band your babies with closed identification bands. It is easy, inexpensive and one of the most important things you can do for the future of your birds. Even if your intention is to keep the bird forever, situations change, usually when least expected. If you wait too long (greater than 14 days), use a split I. D. band. Most of the lories cannot remove split bands. Also keep written records which should Include hatch date, band number, parent lineage, sexing information, health history, pairing attempts and other pertinent information. As time goes by, and especially if you are forced to transfer ownership of your bird, banding and written records will prove to be invaluable. Remember, lories have long lives, up to 25 years.

There are several horror stories circulated and some of these stories are used as excuses for not banding chicks. We have not experienced, nor have any of my acquaintances experienced, parent birds causing harm to their chicks due to bands when they are placed back in the nest after banding. To insure complete safety, pull your chicks at banding time and hand feed them until they are weaned.

The last, and perhaps the most important safety consideration is selection of the proper size band. There are many references to define the proper size specific to each species. Bands that are too small will bind the leg and cause serious harm if not detected and removed in time (aluminum bands can be cut off with heavy wire cutters, suggest via your avain vet). Bands that are too large could get caught on objects and cause injury, especially with energetic lories.

Band your babies - protect their future.